Tuesday, February 28, 2012

Countryside in the city

I've started biking to school this semester.  It's only a few miles from my house.  But before, I was always nervous about the sweat, the potholes, the danger of being the little guy cringing at every speeding Lexus and towering truck.  Logos is on the edge of Phnom Penh, and the road it's on connects to a highway out to the province.  So the route to school is busy, particularly at rush hour.  Bikes get shoved to the edge of the road, where it floods, where it's not quite paved, where motos that just turned left are driving on the wrong side straight toward you.  It didn't seem worth it when I already had a moto (AKA scooter).

Several friends had bikes, though, and said it wasn't as bad as it seemed.  I wanted the exercise and the freedom to travel alone when Sarah (housemate and moto co-owner) needed the moto to go elsewhere.  And I have no desire to augment Phnom Penh's pollution.  So I finally bought a bike over Christmas break, with the caveat that I'd still use the moto several days a week if biking took too much mental effort. 

Little did I know they were cementing the back roads!  These roads were barely passable several months back.  Their gigantic potholes every dozen yards, bricks and fist-sized stones jutting out left and right, and broken glass have now been transformed into a smooth, silent ride. 

Now, I can go 3/4 of the way on nearly deserted roads, with only a couple minutes of more chaotic traffic.  Rather than a stress factor, riding my bike to and from school has become a sanctuary of peace and beauty.  Traffic is rare, and almost none of it is cars.  So I can observe locals, soak in nature, and fantasize that I'm hours away from Phnom Penh.  Taking the moto isn't even tempting, at least for now while hot season holds off.  Here are some of the treats I look out for each day.








 
The little boy is in front of my house; the girl is across the street.  A bunch of kids live in the house across from me, and often play in the street or on the sidewalk.  One day, I arrived at my gate to find these two chatting away on their "phones."  How cute are they?

Friday, February 24, 2012

Bible camp or labor camp?

“On the first day, I really wanted to cry and go back home…”

We took the grade 11s and 12s to a new camp this year.  Our 9s and 10s returned to a leadership development/ropes course camp where Logos has gone for years.  But since we’ve outgrown their facilities, we branched out this year.  It seemed perfect: run by a UK organization, it’s eco-friendly, affordable for our budget, and lets students participate short-term in long-term community development projects.  We booked it and told students about its great reputation with school teams from all over the world. 


Students washed their hands with water from a traditional large basin (left).  All the buildings were either sod or thatch.

Our expectations were met, but our students’ were not.  It took a few days for the truth to come out that when they heard “UK” and “international,” they interpreted it as “luxurious,” which the old camp was not.  The rumors spread like wildfire before arriving: Brick buildings!  Fans!  Running water!  Instead, they were greeted with a compost toilet, painful red ants all over the cabins, no fans, and no trees for shade…the other camp's forest location made it cool.  They knew we’d be working every day, but they hoped for lots of free time in which to hang out, and many were unprepared for the tough manual labor Tuesday through Thursday.

 Local students, rapt as their school's shutters are repainted

On Tuesday, it was depressingly difficult to see progress.  My group sanded a school’s wall for three hours, using 3” by 2” squares of sandpaper already worn ragged.  After lunch, everyone moved dirt for a future community center at the Buddhist pagoda near camp.  Students couldn’t understand: as a Christian school, why were we streaming sweat and forming blisters on behalf of Buddhism?  We had some good talks about which would reveal Christ more powerfully: to proclaim our beliefs to the camp directors and abstain from helping, or to do the work cheerfully, knowing the center would benefit the whole community.  (To my knowledge, the village is 100% Buddhist.)  We developed an assembly line, all 50 of us working for two hours in heat and full sun to carry dirt about 1/3 mile from a mound to a giant hole that needed to be filled.  The hole seemed no smaller when we left.  

The next two days also involved plenty of hard work – mixing concrete, tilling soil for gardens, carrying water – and many had never experienced work of that intensity.  We were sweaty and smelly by 8:30 AM, and stayed that way until 4:30 or 5 after returning.  For middle- to upper-class Asian kids, academic excellence is essential, but chores are not: they’re left for moms or house helpers.  Some students didn’t know how to hold a broom until they got a work detention at Logos, let alone a hoe or a pickaxe.  But besides the physical labor, our students also have a deep aversion to sweat, dirt, and sun.  They’re a necessary evil for many Cambodians, but I don’t think any social class embraces them.   Food vendors trudge the streets all day, but they wear long sleeves and hats, and pause often in the shade.  Laborers prefer to be crammed into a truck bed with 40 others rather than to walk to their job site.  Showering is likewise a high priority for most.  So it wasn’t 100% “rich kid” prissiness, but they sure were awfully excited about showering every evening, even from a bucket. 


 This guy pulled out his "Little Bo Peep" hat while gardening - better than to risk tanning

“I really tried hard to see God’s work being done at the work site as the teachers told me, but I still struggled to find it…" My first real sign of hope came Tuesday evening, during devotions.  My small group and others were really open and thoughtful during our discussion.  Yes, our students were disappointed with the facilities and less than excited about the side effects of hard work.  But on the other hand, they were soaking up our theme that service reveals God to us in unique and transformative ways.  As we talked about the widow who bakes her last bit of bread for Elijah, the boy who shares his loaves and fish with the crowd, Abraham surrendering Isaac, and a Cambodian general who stayed in Khmer Rouge Cambodia to advance the Gospel, they saw more and more purpose to their seemingly fruitless tasks.  


 "Pajama mamas," glad to be clean again...I couldn't believe one girl packed both these pairs for our 4 nights there.

It also helped to see Cambodians working hard all around us.  Much of our work was at an elementary school, where the school provides breakfast.  Even the youngest ones had chores watering their vegetable gardens and washing dishes with water from the nearly dried-up pond.  We learned from them how to use a stick to lower a bucket 20 feet down to the water’s edge, then bring it up full.  One of our tasks was to expand the gardens so they don’t need to buy any vegetables, and it was gratifying to see the progress we’d made and imagine the kids harvesting them in a few months.  At the pagoda were several orphan kids, whom the monks have been raising.  Both they and the monks were busy with physical labor alongside us: moving dirt with us or wrestling a giant vat of pond water onto a truck for showering, cooking, and drinking.  In the province, and often in Phnom Penh, work happens the hard way and the old-fashioned way.  One student wrote, “As a Cambodian…I was able to reflect on how this is actually what my family used to grow up in.  The more my friends complained about it, the more I was thankful.  I was able to experience some of the hard work that the local people had to do.”  

Making coconut milk by hand for yummy banana dessert

Maybe that’s why many Cambodian parents – even rich non-Christian families- seemed to appreciate the purpose more than many Korean families, even missionaries.  One girl, who in 9th grade was forbidden to attend the other camp because her parents were so protective, said her family was glad to hear about the work she did this year.  (Even if they also were horrified that she’d gotten one tiny pimple.)  On the other hand, Korean parents responded, “You look like an Indian!”  “Sounds like the military.”  “Maybe next year you can break your leg right before.”  I’m hoping others affirmed their children’s work more, but I didn’t hear of any that did.  It makes me more grateful for all the students who, despite their culture’s disdain, embraced the hard work as they saw God’s presence saturate it.

Here’s some feedback from students: 

“On the first day, I really wanted to cry and go back home.  However, [on Wednesday] I realized nobody wanted to work, but they did not complain.  From then on, I tried to work eagerly.  I started to like working really hard.” 

“The work led to good conversations and it made me really question why I was doing this and what my heart was behind this.  It wasn’t only for school or because we were getting to benefit from it, or even to get a ‘thanks.’  This week was all for God’s glory.  God used my hands to serve him this week.”  

“God doesn’t always put you in places you want or like to serve.  It is actually up to God…Just because you are in a bad place doesn’t mean that we should be all grumpy and complaining about it.  If you change your perspective on things, everything won’t turn out that negative.” 

“Camp made me think about those people who dig dirt for a living, and how easy my life is.  I have things easy, but yet I still complained.  I should try to be more considerate and grateful for what I have.” 

"I would like someone to appreciate my work and honor/respect me for doing that.  But as we could see in the Bible, there was no verse or chapter that said anything about rewarding the kid [who shared his fish and bread].  I thought he could be one of the heroes that day with Jesus for providing his food for all those people, but he didn’t do that.  He just stayed quiet and let Jesus get the fame and honor.  This boy really inspired me.” 

“I can’t just shovel dirt for a week and that takes care of all my service.  Service needs to be a lifestyle.  Wherever I go as a Christian I want to leave and people say, “She was a servant.”  Camp was good because it really pushed my focus outward while still making me think about all the parts of me that God is working on.”