Suorsdey chnam thmey!

That’s Khmer for “Happy Khmer New Year!”

A neighbor's New Year's offerings, a few years back

Today’s the first of three days in this mid-April holiday, when farmers celebrate the end of harvest and the imminent arrival of rainy season.  (This year, the rains have started early – it’s pouring outside as I write.)  Phnom Penh is a ghost town this week, since most people have gone back to their home villages to celebrate with relatives.  I'm savoring the hush and the wide-open streets.  For some people, like my friend Srey Pos, this is the only time all year that they’ll return.  Everybody wants to buy a new set of clothing to show off in their village.  They enjoy traditional games, songs, and foods.  Most people also participate in religious ceremonies honoring Buddha, ancestors, and other spirits.

At the hotel my parents and I visited last year in Siem Reap

I found this fantastic New Year 2013 song on YouTube. In it, you can observe typical elements of Khmer life and culture, such as…

This style of music – the sound is typical of songs played at weddings, in karaoke videos, and other sources of popular entertainment.

Melodramatic slapstick humor.

Wooden houses on stilts: this is true of almost every house in rural areas, while in the city most homes are made of concrete, but even my next-door neighbor and several families near Logos have houses like this.  The blue trim around the windows and door is also typical.

Guys sitting around drinking beer.

The low bamboo structure that the guys are sitting on.  People use those to prepare and eat food, hang out with visitors, and often sleep on.  They're often located under the houses.

The krama, a checkered scarf worn around people’s heads.  (It's quite versatile: hat, bandana, scarf, man skirt, bag...I've even seen one suspending a baby between bicycle handlebars.)

Fruit and incense being offered to ancestors and other spirits.  (This happens all the time, but especially during the New Year.)

Traditional long skirts, made from colorful sarong material.

Dancing that consists mostly of simple steps (in a circle or in place) while twisting your wrists around.  Note the lack of physical contact.

Guys flirting with girls who reject their advances, or at least pretend to.  

Livestock wandering around...though I don't tend to see pigs where I am, only cows and chickens.

I'm probably missing more...what else stands out to you?

Obviously the song and the holiday celebrate tradition, and some people in the capitol are more cosmopolitan and "modern."  But most of the video is still quite normal in everyday Cambodian life, including for the average Phnom Penh resident.   (With the possible exception of throwing sticks at livestock.)  Despite the ubiquity of TV, electric guitars, and cell phones, most aspects of Cambodian culture have remained constant over several hundred years.